The city on the banks of the Nahuel Huapi lake has the most important network of shelters in South America. The 2022 season will find them open.

The hours of walking are felt on the legs and on the weight of the backpack. The heavy breathing after that last climb gives way to happiness when we look up and finally the mountain refuge that was our objective appears. Tiredness seems to evaporate: there is enough energy to deviate a bit from the "bite" and take that much desired photo. Satisfaction turned into a smile - and, many times, even more effervescent celebrations - is an experience well known to those who venture along the trails of San Carlos de Bariloche. The city boasts the most important network of mountain refuges in South America and trekking is one of the most popular activities during the summer season. The most traditional still undertake these paths with the paper map they bought more than 20 years ago and enjoy identifying that and that hill, while many others are guided by the updated info provided by the apps. Whatever the case, the mystique is still there, in the assembly of the backpack, the planning of the meals and the secondary treks that come off the main excursion. It must be taken into account that something was modified as a result of Covid-19: the community use of the kitchen, a classic service in this type of tourism, is no longer allowed. Next, a tour of the best refuges belonging to the Club Andino Bariloche (CAB) and their proposals.

Emilio Frey Refuge - Toncek Lagoon - Cerro Catedral

Opened in 1957, it is among the few that remain open all year round. The traditional path to get to Frey (10 km, 700 m of unevenness) begins at the parking lot at the base of Cerro Catedral and requires about four hours of walking. And there is another option, which connects the Gutiérrez lake park rangers' station, very close to Villa Los Coihues, with the refuge. In that case, the climb is much steeper. On the shores of the Toncek lagoon, the refuge is located at the base of the Frey spire - a classic destination for climbers - and is surrounded by the rest of the spiers and stone towers that make up the Cathedral. To sleep in the refuge or camp nearby, it is mandatory to book through the web. In addition to overnight stays and baths, the place offers craft beer, pizzas, stuffed calzones, breads and homemade breakfasts. Useful data. Overnight: $ 2500; use of bathrooms: $ 200; full board (dinner, overnight and breakfast): $ 5500; half board (overnight and breakfast): $ 3500; full dinner (starter, main course and dessert): $ 2000; simple dinner (main course): $ 1500; breakfast: $ 1100; camp: free.

General San Martín Refuge - Jakob Lagoon

Built of stone and wood, the original shelter was inaugurated in February 1952. The place was set on fire in 2017 and the current structure was inaugurated in April 2018. The trekking (18 km, 800 m of elevation gain) to the Jakob lagoon is It starts at the Báez tambo, on the old road to Colonia Suiza, and goes up the Casa de Piedra stream. The walk is of low and medium difficulty and takes between 4 and 6 hours.The San Martín is also an excellent starting point to get to know other places, such as the Témpanos lagoon and the Schweitzer Pass, as well as continuing the journey to the Mascardi lake. In this refuge, which is also open all year round, it is required to reserve a place through the web. Useful data. Overnight: $ 2000; dinner (starter, main course and dessert): $ 1900; breakfast: $ 900; half board: $ 4800; full board: $ 5780. By sanitary protocol, it is not allowed to enter the shelter with food.

Refugio Italia - Manfredo Segre - Black lagoon

The trail begins in Colonia Suiza, very close to the bridge over the Goye stream. The walk of 14 km and 800 meters of unevenness requires between 5 and 7 hours: the slope rises little by little until finally crossing the stream and starting the famous and steep “damned snail”, just before the refuge. Located at 1620 meters above sea level, it has the capacity to host 45 people (in bunk beds) and offers restaurant service (dinners, breakfasts, lunches, box lunch, cafeteria and homemade beer made right there). Reservations are mandatory and are made through the web. Useful data. Overnight (it is recommended to bring a sleeping bag): $ 2200; camp: $ 400; full board: $ 4700; Simple board (main course, overnight, breakfast): $ 4100; dinner (starter, main course and dessert): $ 1700; main course only: $ 1200; breakfast: $ 950.

Agostino Rocca Refuge - Pass of the Clouds

In Pampa Linda, at the base of Cerro Tronador, 80 km from Bariloche, the trail begins towards one of the newest refuges of the CAB, inaugurated in 2012. The 14.3 km (530 meters of unevenness) take between 4 and 6 hours of walking (medium or low difficulty). With 10 rooms and capacity for 80 people, the place has showers - a service that its "colleagues" do not offer - and is supplied by hydroelectric energy. Like the one in Laguna Negra, it remains open between November and April. Its strategic location offers unbeatable views of the Frías glacier and the valley of the Alerce and Frías rivers. It is mandatory to reserve a place at www.refugiorocca.com From the Rocca you can continue the walk to Puerto Frías and return to Bariloche by boat, passing through Puerto Blest. Useful data. Overnight (shower not included and you must bring a sleeping bag): $ 3500; breakfast / snack: $ 1300; lunches and dinners: between $ 1,300 and $ 2,500; vegetarian dish: between $ 1300 and $ 2000; sleeping bag rental: $ 900; use of showers: $ 1500; half board: $ 7300; full board: $ 10,500.

Otto Meiling Shelter - Cerro Tronador

Located on the slope of Cerro Tronador, between the Castaño Overa and Alerce glaciers, at 2,000 meters above sea level, it has one of the most impressive views of the Nahuel Huapi National Park. Accessing there is not for everyone: it requires a very good physical condition and previous experience. In the ascent, 14 km (1050 meters of unevenness) are traveled along a mountain slope, first, and then a path of less slope that leads to the limit of the vegetation. They take between 5 and 7 hours. Once up, the climatic changes are a constant (the Tronador is the highest peak in the park). The Meiling offers dishes of your choice, breakfasts, snacks, food, kiosk products and drinks. Both to sleep in the refuge (it has capacity for 60 people) and to camp, you have to reserve a place on the web and obtain good advice before starting the trek. There are also excursions with mountain guides that allow you to ascend to the ridges and peaks of the Tronador, go ice climbing or go snowshoeing. Useful data. Sleeping in the shelter will cost around $ 3000 this summer, while a plate will cost between $ 1000 and $ 2000.

Juan Javier Neumeyer Refuge- Challhuaco Hill

It is located 19 km from Bariloche, in the Valle del Challhuaco Strict Natural Reserve, and can be accessed by car. Its surroundings offer various trekking trails of little difficulty, such as the one that leads to the Verde lagoon, where one of the endemic species of the national park lives, the frog Atelognathus nitoi. The place, surrounded by forest, offers the possibility of sleeping in an eco-dormi: it is a dome equipped with double or single beds, and bedding. It has capacity for between 2 and 6 people and works with the private reservation mode: if someone reserves for 2 or 4, for example, the shelter for that group is “blocked” for that night. Useful data. Overnight (with dinner and breakfast): $ 6800; walk to Laguna Verde and lunch: $ 6500; Guided trekking to the summit of Cerro Challhuaco, $ 8500; night walk through the forest and dinner: $ 6500. refugeioneumeyer.com

Ilón Refuge - Ilón Lagoon

From Pampa Linda, the trek requires about 4 hours of walking, in which 8 km are traveled. The lagoon is located at about 1,300 meters above sea level: during the first 30 minutes of the walk, the Alerce river is crossed by a suspension bridge, then the ascent begins, which takes about two hours, and finally the path flattens and crosses a forest of lengas. The service sector has 20 camping sites (more than one tent can enter per site), a main dome that acts as a kitchen and dining room (with capacity for about 20 people) and a bedroom dome with capacity for 30 people in bunks. It is also mandatory to reserve, both for those who are going to sleep in the dome, as in a tent. Useful data. Overnight in dome: $ 2000; camping area: $ 1000; lunch or dinner (starter, main course, dessert): $ 1800; plate: $ 1100; full breakfast: $ 900; simple breakfast: $ 700.

Many of these refuges can even be tacked together in crossings of several days, such as those between Jakob and Negra, Catedral and Jakob, and Ilón and Paso de las Nubes. In all cases, before venturing out, it is mandatory to complete the trekking registration at www.nahuelhuapi.gov.ar Rates are likely to undergo an adjustment in December, as some concessionaires have warned. The moments and emotions experienced in these Patagonian spaces return to the minds of those of us who have stepped on them several times over the years. A trick game or a shared beer at those tables that so many generations have passed through are memorable experiences.

Source: https://www.lanacion.com.ar/revista-lugares/bariloche-los-siete-refugios-de-montana-mas-buscados-y-como-reservarlos-nid26112021/