Córdoba, the second-largest city in Argentina, has a different personality than the metropolis of Buenos Aires. Across the country, the people of Córdoba (known as Cordobesas) are known as fun-loving folks with a fondness for cuarteto music, rally car racing, and the drink of Fernet and Coke. While most people visiting the country will no doubt explore the capital city, Córdoba is worth the trip for its blend of new and old, with 17th-century Jesuit ruins alongside modern art galleries, and a huge student population that makes the city fun and hip.

Plaza de San Martin

The city’s central square is a good place to start your time in Córdoba. You’ll find a statue of the famous General Jose de San Martin, the liberator of Argentina (and Chile and Peru) in the center. For architecture buffs and cathedral enthusiasts, there’s the Iglesia Catedral Córdoba which was built in the 1500s and a 17th century colonial cabildo which once housed the town police and now provides tourist information. Almost daily, you’ll find shows by bands or street performers and vendors plying their wares here. You can have a coffee, people-watch, or feed the pigeons in this attractive central plaza.

Museo de la Memoria

If you haven’t yet familiarized yourself with the devastating history of Argentina’s “Dirty War” during the 70s and 80s yet, this museum provides an enlightening look.

Visitors can see some photos of the many thousands of people who disappeared at the hands of the government during this time of political turmoil. Gain some insight into the military dictatorship of la Guerra Sucia and the kidnappings and tortures that occurred in secret.

The stark space that houses the museum was used as a secret torture and detention location by the dreaded Department of Intelligence (D2). Families of those who were “disappeared” have donated the information and photos that are featured all over the walls here.

Parque Sarmiento

It’s the largest public park in the area. If you fancy a little downtime, relax by the picturesque lake or the rose garden inside. The park is centrally located, with families playing and joggers passing through on its many trails. If you wait around long enough, an ice cream or doughnut vendor might just pass by. Take out a paddle boat, use the exercise equipment, feed the ducks, or just lounge in the grass. 

Evita Fine Arts Museum

Located in the grandiose Beaux-Arts mansion, this museum contains over 500 works and a sculpture garden. You can traipse through rooms filled with paintings by many important Argentine artists as well the likes of Picasso and Goya. The museum was once the opulent private residence of the aristocratic doctor and businessman Martin Ferreyra. The art collection is worth the visit alone, but the magnificent house (well, palace) contains an impressive staircase and a lovely cafe with a balcony.

Paseo de Las Artes

A great place for shopping or just browsing, this weekend street market contains original handicrafts, souvenirs, and vintage clothing and accessories, all spread out over several blocks in the Güemes neighborhood. Check out the food for sale and street performers trying to make a buck as you wander the stalls of vendors. There might be quite a lot of repetition in what you see, so make sure you check around for the best prices. Even if you don’t want to buy anything, the market is surrounded by lots of great restaurants, cafes, bars, and art galleries.

Iglesia de Los Capuchinos

A beautiful church in the Nueva Córdoba neighborhood, the inside might seem a little subdued when compared to its impressive, multicolored neo-Gothic exterior.

Designed by Italian architect Augusto Ferrari and built through the 1920s and 30s, make sure to walk inside to peek up at the ceiling for a glimpse of the painted night sky.

There are murals and religious artworks on the inside, with locals still coming and going for a quick prayer or confession throughout the day.

El Paseo Buen Pastor Cultural Center

Once a women’s prison, monastery, and chapel, this renovated performance space and cultural center is a fun meeting place in the center of town that’s good for a wander.

You can catch shows, check out live music, and view the artwork that’s on display inside. Have a coffee, a snack, or a drink at one of the many eateries and outdoor tables in the Nueva Córdoba barrio. And be sure to stick around at night for the fountains that light up during one of their “dancing waters” shows.

Get Adventurous in the Village of La Cumbre

Tourists and local Cordobeses alike enjoy a getaway to the nearby village of La Cumbre. A tiny town located in the Sierras de Córdoba mountain range, it’s less than a two-hour drive away from the city. Famous for its winds and launch cliffs, La Cumbre put itself on the map when it hosted the 1994 World Paragliding Cup. Try the exciting sport yourself up at Cuchi Corral or with Hernán Pitocco, a world famous instructor who resides there. If that’s not your thing, take a horseback ride through the gorgeous mountain landscapes with Carmelo Cabalgatas or one of the local estancias.